Vaccinations..
**WARNING** (UPDATE AUGUST 2017)
PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THERE IS NOW 2 STRAINS OF THE VHD VIRUS.. MOST BUNNIES WILL HAVE BEEN VACCINATED AGAINST JUST ONE STRAIN WHICH IS IN THE COMBINED VACCINE WITH THE MYXOMATOSIS BUT IF APPEARS THAT THIS IS NOT ENOUGH.. YOUR BUNNY STARTS TO LOSE THEIR IMMUNITY FROM THEIR MOTHER FROM THE MOMENT THEY ARE TAKEN AWAY AND MEANS THAT THEY ARE AT HIGH RISK OF CATCHING THIS AIR BORN VIRUS.. PLEASE MAKE ENQUIRIES AT YOUR VET IN ORDER TO PROTECT YOUR BUNNY.. IT TAKES A WEEK FOR THE VACCINE TO TAKE FULL EFFECT..
The simple answer to this is to do it!! Please be advised by your vet as to when they recommend this is to be done..
It can be done as a combined vaccine or single vaccines for both diseases..
I believe all rabbits are at risk even if you live in a built up area away from fields etc. Birds and mice and other small critters could carry myxomatosis or the VHD/RHD virus into your garden and pass this on to your lovely bunny..
I have done some basic research in my area and the combined vacination for VHD/RHD and myxomatosis costs around £20 - £40. Certain times of the year it seems that some vets will do special offers so please shop around..
This needs to be done every 12 months..
PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THERE IS NOW 2 STRAINS OF THE VHD VIRUS.. MOST BUNNIES WILL HAVE BEEN VACCINATED AGAINST JUST ONE STRAIN WHICH IS IN THE COMBINED VACCINE WITH THE MYXOMATOSIS BUT IF APPEARS THAT THIS IS NOT ENOUGH.. YOUR BUNNY STARTS TO LOSE THEIR IMMUNITY FROM THEIR MOTHER FROM THE MOMENT THEY ARE TAKEN AWAY AND MEANS THAT THEY ARE AT HIGH RISK OF CATCHING THIS AIR BORN VIRUS.. PLEASE MAKE ENQUIRIES AT YOUR VET IN ORDER TO PROTECT YOUR BUNNY.. IT TAKES A WEEK FOR THE VACCINE TO TAKE FULL EFFECT..
The simple answer to this is to do it!! Please be advised by your vet as to when they recommend this is to be done..
It can be done as a combined vaccine or single vaccines for both diseases..
I believe all rabbits are at risk even if you live in a built up area away from fields etc. Birds and mice and other small critters could carry myxomatosis or the VHD/RHD virus into your garden and pass this on to your lovely bunny..
I have done some basic research in my area and the combined vacination for VHD/RHD and myxomatosis costs around £20 - £40. Certain times of the year it seems that some vets will do special offers so please shop around..
This needs to be done every 12 months..
Worming..
I worm the parents of all babies before they are bred from. My vet advises that this is the best way as babies should not be wormed until they are 4 months of age..
It is strongly recommend that all rabbits from the age of 4 months should be wormed and about twice a year for the rest of his or her life. Panacur for rabbits is what is used and it comes in a tube with some nice tasting paste. The course will last for nine consecutive days.
It is strongly recommend that all rabbits from the age of 4 months should be wormed and about twice a year for the rest of his or her life. Panacur for rabbits is what is used and it comes in a tube with some nice tasting paste. The course will last for nine consecutive days.
Mites..
At certain times of the year your bunny may scratch and sometimes have the odd bald area or areas where their coat is thinner..
This is unavoidable as most things could be carried to them on the hay (even if it has been bought from a pet shop) Reality is that it has been in a field somewhere and could carry tiny little mites and past them to your bunny..
This can be easily treated with drops bought from your local vet or occasionally pets shops.. The active ingredient is called ivermectin and the treatment could be something like a few drops a week for 3 weeks.. Please get advise from a vet if treating a young bunny..
This is unavoidable as most things could be carried to them on the hay (even if it has been bought from a pet shop) Reality is that it has been in a field somewhere and could carry tiny little mites and past them to your bunny..
This can be easily treated with drops bought from your local vet or occasionally pets shops.. The active ingredient is called ivermectin and the treatment could be something like a few drops a week for 3 weeks.. Please get advise from a vet if treating a young bunny..
Do I need to neuter my bunny?
I believe that a bunny is happier and a nicer pet if neutered regardless if a single pet bunny or in a pair or group.. Ultimately this is up to the new owner of a bunny however I believe that one of the reasons why bunnies end up in a rescue or unwanted is because of their behaviour with us humans or indeed fellow bunnies. A simple op could potentially help.
I have people ask me for same sex pairs because they think that they won't need to get this done.. WRONG.! I will never sell a pair of boy bunnies to be together because I feel there is a risk of them fighting even if neutered. A pair of girls is fine but please go into this expecting to get them neutered at around 6 months of age.. I often say to people that as they are starting with nothing they may aswell have the best pairing which is a male/female pairing. The male bunny will have to be neutered at 4 months of age to eliminate the chances of babies and then the female bunny from 6 months of age. I think if they are both neutered it balances them out with their hormones otherwise the female will get quite frustrated with the male at certain times..
Obviously there is a risk with having this done and I believe that the anaesthetic is more of a risk than the actual operation.. When choosing your vet please try and find one who specialises in small animals or rabbits. The quicker the operation is done the least time they need to be asleep..
I have people ask me for same sex pairs because they think that they won't need to get this done.. WRONG.! I will never sell a pair of boy bunnies to be together because I feel there is a risk of them fighting even if neutered. A pair of girls is fine but please go into this expecting to get them neutered at around 6 months of age.. I often say to people that as they are starting with nothing they may aswell have the best pairing which is a male/female pairing. The male bunny will have to be neutered at 4 months of age to eliminate the chances of babies and then the female bunny from 6 months of age. I think if they are both neutered it balances them out with their hormones otherwise the female will get quite frustrated with the male at certain times..
Obviously there is a risk with having this done and I believe that the anaesthetic is more of a risk than the actual operation.. When choosing your vet please try and find one who specialises in small animals or rabbits. The quicker the operation is done the least time they need to be asleep..
Feeding..
I feed my rabbits on Heygates Rabbit Choice Pellets. Pellet form of food is without a doubt the best food you can give to them to prevent them selective feeding..
It looks very boring but you can give little extras to give variety when they are 3 months and older..
You can also give them barley rings (usually bought from a farm shop and originally for horses) They love them! And brown toast (cooled)..
It looks very boring but you can give little extras to give variety when they are 3 months and older..
You can also give them barley rings (usually bought from a farm shop and originally for horses) They love them! And brown toast (cooled)..
One or Two Bunnies?
I believe that rabbits do like to live with one of their own kind however not everyone wants two rabbits. If you choose to have one make sure you are prepared to give him or her plenty of time and attention.
I always think it's worth trying to bond a bunny of any age.. I hate the idea of condemning a bunny to a lifetime alone..
My advise to people who aren't sure is to say start with one and see how you get on. If you feel you may want to introduce another in say 6 months or a year it's best to get your current bunny neutered. You can then add the opposite sex to your current bunny and if done in the correct way will work very well indeed..
Although I do breed rabbits I have had them as pets for many years so I can give you advise from my experiance and not from what I have read in a book or internet..
I always think it's worth trying to bond a bunny of any age.. I hate the idea of condemning a bunny to a lifetime alone..
My advise to people who aren't sure is to say start with one and see how you get on. If you feel you may want to introduce another in say 6 months or a year it's best to get your current bunny neutered. You can then add the opposite sex to your current bunny and if done in the correct way will work very well indeed..
Although I do breed rabbits I have had them as pets for many years so I can give you advise from my experiance and not from what I have read in a book or internet..
Litter Training..
I prefer the kitten litter trays rather than the corner ones you buy for rabbits. You simply work out which corner he or she has chosen to go to the toilet and make the tray smell like their wee by putting some into the tray and placing the tray back into the corner. It should be as simple as that!
HOT WEATHER!!
Simply - HOT weather is very dangerous and life threatening to your bunny..
So many people ask me about the cold weather and whether they are okay during the winter with the ice and rain etc but it is extreme hot weather that is the crucial one..
When selecting an area for your hutch to stand, please ensure it will be in a shaded area.. It may start off in the shade but what about other times of the day?
You will need to consider this if placing them in the run for the day also..
Things you can do to help keep you bunny cool is to:
1. Fill a small bottle with water and place in the freezer.. You can place this in the hutch to help cool things down a bit..
2. Place a large tile on the floor of the hutch so they can lay on a cool surface.. (Make sure it has no sharpe edges)
3. Cut some carrots into small pieces and place into a small bowl, fill with water and then place in the freezer.. They will enjoy nibbling at the cold ice trying to pick the carrots out.. It you have guinea pigs you could also add cucumber (I don't recommend watery vegetables for rabbits)
4. Bring them indoors with a fan blowing on part of the hutch (you wouldn't want to chill them)
5. You can use a plant spray to spray them with cool water.. (Obviously you wouldn't want to drench them)
So many people ask me about the cold weather and whether they are okay during the winter with the ice and rain etc but it is extreme hot weather that is the crucial one..
When selecting an area for your hutch to stand, please ensure it will be in a shaded area.. It may start off in the shade but what about other times of the day?
You will need to consider this if placing them in the run for the day also..
Things you can do to help keep you bunny cool is to:
1. Fill a small bottle with water and place in the freezer.. You can place this in the hutch to help cool things down a bit..
2. Place a large tile on the floor of the hutch so they can lay on a cool surface.. (Make sure it has no sharpe edges)
3. Cut some carrots into small pieces and place into a small bowl, fill with water and then place in the freezer.. They will enjoy nibbling at the cold ice trying to pick the carrots out.. It you have guinea pigs you could also add cucumber (I don't recommend watery vegetables for rabbits)
4. Bring them indoors with a fan blowing on part of the hutch (you wouldn't want to chill them)
5. You can use a plant spray to spray them with cool water.. (Obviously you wouldn't want to drench them)
COLD WEATHER!!
Believe it or not, rabbits can cope with the cold weather however they do need assistance in order for them to cope..
They will naturally build up their winter coat as the weather becomes colder. If you have a garage or shed which has a window the hutch can be moved into there to protect them from the elements..
If you are unable to do this then you can make sure you cover the hutch well to protect from rain, snow and frost.. (Ventilation is also important)
Please don't bring them into central heating unless you are keeping them indoors for the winter otherwise they will shed their lovely thick, winter coat when you put them back outside..
Extra hay and straw can be given.. I sometimes increase their food a little too..
This is when I think a companion bunny is really important because they will cuddle up with each other to keep each other warm..
They will naturally build up their winter coat as the weather becomes colder. If you have a garage or shed which has a window the hutch can be moved into there to protect them from the elements..
If you are unable to do this then you can make sure you cover the hutch well to protect from rain, snow and frost.. (Ventilation is also important)
Please don't bring them into central heating unless you are keeping them indoors for the winter otherwise they will shed their lovely thick, winter coat when you put them back outside..
Extra hay and straw can be given.. I sometimes increase their food a little too..
This is when I think a companion bunny is really important because they will cuddle up with each other to keep each other warm..
RAIN..
Don't let your bunny get wet at any age as this could chill them and they could become unwell as a result..
Hard or Soft Poo Stuck Under The Tail..
Occasionally I get asked why their bunny keeps getting hard or soft poo stuck under their tail..
I think its simply that they are being over fed with their pellet food or mixed rabbit food.. What happens about once a day is that they produce a moist type of poo that you may see them eat.. This will introduce a very important bacteria back into their digestive system. If they are overfed they will produce too much of this and won't eat it all which means it may get stuck under their tail and over time will get quite hard.. The other cause could also be if they get too fat then they literally can't reach round to clean themselves properly.. They will then be at very high risk of FLY STRIKE..
Other things to consider are:
Keep their main rabbit food consistent. If you buy different food from different places from time to time then this could be another cause. Rabbits stomachs are quite delicate and if a different type of food is given without a 7 day changeover then this could cause a condition called bloat. This condition is life threatening if not detected very very quickly..
I think that if you are feeding your rabbit fruit and veg it's best to stick with the dryer ones, for example carrots and broccoli rather than cucumber and tomatoes..
I think its simply that they are being over fed with their pellet food or mixed rabbit food.. What happens about once a day is that they produce a moist type of poo that you may see them eat.. This will introduce a very important bacteria back into their digestive system. If they are overfed they will produce too much of this and won't eat it all which means it may get stuck under their tail and over time will get quite hard.. The other cause could also be if they get too fat then they literally can't reach round to clean themselves properly.. They will then be at very high risk of FLY STRIKE..
Other things to consider are:
Keep their main rabbit food consistent. If you buy different food from different places from time to time then this could be another cause. Rabbits stomachs are quite delicate and if a different type of food is given without a 7 day changeover then this could cause a condition called bloat. This condition is life threatening if not detected very very quickly..
I think that if you are feeding your rabbit fruit and veg it's best to stick with the dryer ones, for example carrots and broccoli rather than cucumber and tomatoes..
Fly Strike
If you have a bunny that has a tendency to get poo stuck under his/her tail then they are at very high risk of fly strike especially in the warmer weather months..
There are various reasons why this happens..
1. Is your bunny too fat to clean his own bottom? Rabbits should be able to prevent fly strike if they can keep themselves clean..
2. Hutch hygiene - Make sure your bunny is cleaned out very regularly
3. Does your bunny have another underlying problem as to why he/she isn't cleaning themselves? This could simply be because they are old however it could be another health issue that needs addressing..
If you have a bunny you must check them at least twice a day.. Fly strike can attack your bunny very quickly and if not detected extremely early it is the most horrific end to a life..
You can buy various sprays from good pet shops or online to prevent fly strike.. It could save a life so please consider having this in your cupboard..
Remove all poo from under your bunny's tail as a matter of routine and try and work out why this is happening..
There are various reasons why this happens..
1. Is your bunny too fat to clean his own bottom? Rabbits should be able to prevent fly strike if they can keep themselves clean..
2. Hutch hygiene - Make sure your bunny is cleaned out very regularly
3. Does your bunny have another underlying problem as to why he/she isn't cleaning themselves? This could simply be because they are old however it could be another health issue that needs addressing..
If you have a bunny you must check them at least twice a day.. Fly strike can attack your bunny very quickly and if not detected extremely early it is the most horrific end to a life..
You can buy various sprays from good pet shops or online to prevent fly strike.. It could save a life so please consider having this in your cupboard..
Remove all poo from under your bunny's tail as a matter of routine and try and work out why this is happening..